This summer, we were in the mood for a quiet, bright spot that was a little off the beaten track. So we headed for Provence Occitane, in the Gard department, for a family holiday between Saint-Gervais and Codolet, in the heart of what is known here as the Basse Cèze. And the least we can say is that this region won us over with its simplicity, warm welcome and light-filled landscapes.
We began our stay in Saint-Gervais, a small village surrounded by vineyards. In the morning, we took the time to walk between the vines, the children playing at recognising the shapes of the leaves, while we enjoyed the peace and quiet. Then we stopped off at the home of Claire, a passionate winemaker who welcomed us for a wine tasting. While she showed us her chilled white and rosé wines, Léo and Emma (our two youngest) enjoyed a homemade syrup under the arbour. It was simple, tasty and, above all, very cosy.
On reaching Orsan, you really enter the Basse Cèze region. Here, the river cuts through the landscape of dry garrigues, pine forests and small stony paths. We put on our walking boots and set off along a path that leads to the Camp de César. Arthur, our teenage history buff, devoured the explanatory panels along the way. The little ones were told the legend of the Cabre d’Or, the golden goat that reappears on Midsummer’s Day, which sparked off a whole debate about the best possible hiding place in the rocks…
Once at the top, the view over the entire Basse Cèze valley is magnificent. We settled down for a picnic, our feet in the grass, with the cries of the swifts in the background. A real breath of fresh air.
The next day, we moved on to a more urban setting, heading for Bagnols-sur-Cèze. We strolled through the old streets, admired the blonde stone facades, and enjoyed an ice-cold break on a lively square. Our real favourite was the Albert André museum. We weren’t expecting to see works by Matisse, Renoir or Claudel in this quiet spot. It’s small but very well done, and free, which doesn’t spoil anything. Léo tried to redraw a painting in pencil in his notebook, while Emma asked the mediator a thousand questions.
To round off our adventure, we took the time to make a diversion to Codolet, just to the east of our route. There’s something very soothing about this corner of the Cèze. Far from the hustle and bustle, the banks are calm, shady and inviting.
The children immediately got out their collection of pebbles for ricochet contests, while we took a leisurely stroll along the river. We passed a few walkers and a fisherman who had been there for who knows how long, looking as peaceful as the place.
Sitting for a few minutes on a low stone wall, we simply enjoyed the silence, the sound of the leaves in the wind, and the soft light at the end of the day. It was a perfect end to our stay, with no frills, in a simple but charming setting. A little spot we won’t forget.
At the end of our stay, looking back on what we’d experienced, we realised just how much this week in Provence Occitane had ticked all the boxes. We were looking for peace and quiet, nature, a bit of culture and, above all, simple family time. And we found all that, concentrated in an area on a human scale. Here’s what particularly impressed us:
the sunny vineyards of Saint-Gervais
pine forests
Orsan
César’s camp
peaceful banks of the Cèze
Codolet
.Local encounters
desire to share
richness of the Basse Cèze
best
South has to offer
top-quality cultural venues
an unspoilt corner of the world… We
far from mass tourism
freedom
It was this blend ofauthenticity, variety and the gentle way of life that won us over. When we left, we said to ourselves that we hadn’t just visited a region, but that we’d taken the time to experience it.
So if you’re looking for a place to take your time, discover simple, authentic places and reconnect with nature and culture, Provence Occitane, and more particularly the Basse Cèze valley, are well worth a visit. We’ll be leaving with some wonderful memories… and a desire to come back again!
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